A FREE FOR YOU Report of Pitti filati Spring Summer 2017, that took place in Florence, 27-28 January 2016. Download the pdf of 25 pages, full of inspirational knit trends!Cover credit: Spazio Ricerca, original photo by 5 forecastore Team
A meeting of natural and artificial materials at Pitti Filati SS17. This play of opposites has been transformed into a new harmony, generating exciting mixes and textural interest, the primary attraction of the new season. It all begins with a rediscovered, revamped ethnicity. A sort of return to tradition, not only in regard to the yarns themselves, but also in terms of the designs, for the most part based on upholstery patterns. The latter evoke Moroccan bazaars and the traditional clothing of South American peoples, all presented by means of designs with lots of geometric elements and interspersed with apparently random cable effects, often created by two different yarns, both in terms of color and count. In this process, yarns and fibers - both synthetic as well as natural - have been ingeniously united in order to best exploit their capacities. Most of the characteristics are invisible, achieved by means of special processes or finishes and carefully selected to satisfy precise technical requirements such as breathability, micro-climatic differences, protection, the way the various yarns combine and many other considerations. In this context wool and wool-blend fabrics are stimulating the curiosity of the buyers and international designers thanks to their high performance. The palette of colors also catches our attention, ranging from graphic black & white to multicolor combinations, perfect for Macramé work. The dominance of high-tech yarns is finally being replaced by the appeal of tradition and the romantic, intimate allure of nature. Natural elements on organza weaves, compact jacquards and woody textures are just a few of the characteristics we will find predominating the upcoming collections. The dizzying pace of change in the fashion world has led the Italian yarn industry to question our mindless consumption. Just as with fabric clothing, the knit manufacturers are trying to raise consumer awareness regarding the various phases of production and, above all, educate them about consumption. There are lots of good ideas, but the most worthwhile have to do with recycling. At Pitti we have been fascinated by plastics obtained from the building sector, textile industry waste materials and combinations of yarns with a ‘used’ look, capable of creating a wonderful play of forms and colors. Then, there’s the “destroyed” look, achieved by means of dropped stitch work, imparting a ‘worn’ allure to the weave. The luxury aspect has not been neglected, either, thanks to blends with Lurex in a variety of stitches, often textured. Scientific research has influenced our sector and we cannot help being inspired by all the new possibilities in terms of finishes and applications, from bacterial cultures to processes of crystallization, not to mention exciting new animal and vegetable products. One is witnessing an explosion of amazing new colors and forms, which we will become everyday. Immortalizing a moment or immortalizing a crease. Encased in rubber or resin, the knit stitches of the upcoming season will amaze us with their three-dimensionality and extraordinary textured feel. In this process of rediscovering this rich textural realm, new materic experiences, greater attention is being paid to the blends of the yarns, capable of generating elaborate new consistencies and fascinating three-dimensionality, rather than simply focusing on the development of new stitches.